Gamcha Edit

The exhibition Gamchha: From the Extraordinary in the Ordinary, presented by Datakari Samiti, is currently on display at the National Crafts Museum and Hastkala Academy in Bharat Mandapam until March 10th.

On a windy day at the National Crafts Museum, amidst a gathering of craft enthusiasts, we step into Gamcha Edit, an exhibition curated and designed by architect Suparna Bhalla of Abaxial Design Private Limited.

With over 250 gamchas sourced from 14 states across India, the exhibit delves into the intricacies of this humble, coarse-woven cloth—measuring barely 70 inches by 35 inches. Often dismissed as an everyday utility, a simple piece of fabric used to wipe away sweat has been transformed into a striking display of cultural heritage. The curation not only celebrates the gamcha’s functional and aesthetic diversity but also pays homage to its deep-rooted significance in Indian life. It is a testament to the curator’s vision—turning the ordinary into something extraordinary.

A Journey Through the Exhibition

Hosted at the National Crafts Museum & Hastkala Academy in New Delhi from March 1 to March 10, 2025, the exhibition showcases over 250 gamchhas from 14 Indian states, highlighting their regional diversity and unique craftsmanship. Curated by architect Suparna Bhalla of Abaxial Design Private Limited, the display transcends the gamchha’s utilitarian origins, presenting it as a symbol of cultural pride and resilience.

The National Crafts Museum & Hastkala Academy, located in New Delhi, is one of India’s premier institutions dedicated to preserving and showcasing the country’s rich craft traditions. Established in 1956, the museum is situated near Pragati Maidan, opposite the historic Purana Qila. ​

Designed by renowned architect Charles Correa, the museum complex reflects traditional Indian architectural styles, creating an immersive cultural experience.  The museum houses over 35,000 artifacts, including textiles, sculptures, paintings, and various crafts of clay, stone, and wood. Its galleries are dedicated to Folk and Tribal Art, Cultic Crafts, Courtly Crafts, and Textiles, each offering insights into India’s diverse artistic heritage. ​

An integral part of the museum is the Village Complex, established in 1972, which features 15 structures representing village dwellings, courtyards, and shrines from different Indian states. This area provides visitors with a tangible sense of rural life and traditional architectural practices.  Additionally, the museum regularly hosts craft demonstrations, allowing artisans to showcase their skills and engage directly with visitors. ​

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with all galleries remaining closed every Monday.Entry fees are INR 20 per person for Indian citizens and INR 300 per person for foreign tourists.  Visitors can also enjoy amenities like Café Lota, which offers traditional Indian cuisine in a contemporary setting, and a craft shop that sells handcrafted items.

The Gamchha’s Regional Identity: A Fabric with Many Stories

The Gamchha may seem like a simple piece of cloth, but its significance varies across different states in India, where it takes on unique names, designs, and cultural roles. The ongoing exhibition highlights these regional variations, showing how this everyday fabric is deeply woven into local traditions.

• Assam: Here, the “Gamosa” is more than just a cloth—it’s a symbol of respect and pride, central to Assamese culture. Usually white with red woven or embroidered borders, it plays a key role in rituals, celebrations, and as a token of honor in social gatherings.
• Odisha: The “Gamosa” in Odisha carries a distinctive design, often featuring red embroidery or intricate borders on white cotton. It reflects the state’s rich textile traditions and is commonly used in both everyday life and religious practices.
• West Bengal & Bihar: These regions are closely linked to the origin of the word “Gamchha,” which literally means “a cloth for wiping the body.” Here, it is an essential part of daily life, particularly among farmers, laborers, and rural communities, who use it as a towel, headwrap, or even a sling to carry goods.
• Manipur: In Manipur, the “Leirum Phee” holds deep cultural value, especially in weddings, where it signifies tradition and familial bonds. Its intricate patterns and craftsmanship make it a significant part of Manipuri heritage.

This exhibition sheds light on how a simple cloth, often overlooked, carries generations of history, craftsmanship, and cultural pride in every thread.

Artistic Interpretations and Installations

Beyond showcasing traditional uses, the exhibition features contemporary art installations that reinterpret the gamchha:

• Spatial Installations: Architect Ankon Mitra has created installations that transform the two-dimensional fabric into multidimensional art forms, elevating the gamchha’s aesthetic appeal. ​
• Design Interventions: The exhibition includes gamchha-inspired creations such as saris, fashion apparel, and lifestyle products, demonstrating the fabric’s adaptability in modern design. ​

Cultural Significance and Symbolism

The gamchha’s importance extends beyond its practical uses:​

• Symbol of Resilience: In Assam, the gamosa is used to cover the altar at the prayer hall or scriptures, symbolizing reverence. It is also worn by farmers and fishermen as a waistcloth or loincloth, reflecting its adaptability in various situations. ​
• Cultural Identity: In Manipur, the leirum phee is an essential part of wedding rituals, symbolizing blessings and familial bonds. ​

Preservation Amid Modern Challenges

At a time when traditional textiles face threats from mass production and cheap imports, the exhibition emphasizes the need to preserve indigenous crafts. Jaya Jaitly, president of the Dastkari Haat Samiti, hopes to bring the gamchha into focus as a symbol of Indian design thinking at its grassroots level.